Glowe, DDR

In den letzten Jahren war ich wieder häufiger auf der Insel Rügen. Und immer wenn ich Richtung Kap Arkona fahre, suche ich auf der Schaabe, genau 3 Kilometer hinter dem Ortsausgangsschild Glowe, eine kleine Einfahrt. Es muss sowohl nach links gehen, Richtung Bodden, als auch nach rechts zur Ostsee.

Dort rechts, nach einem Kilometer Rumpelweg durch den Küstenwald, habe ich einen Großteil der Urlaube meiner Kindheit verbracht. Von 1982 bis Anfang der 1990er waren wir eigentlich jedes Jahr mindestens einmal dort.

Nicht auf dem etwas bekannteren Zeltplatz, über den Antje Ravic-Strubel einen schönen Text in der Welt geschrieben hat: Wir verbrachten die Ferien in einem „Quartier” des Zentralinstituts der Physik der Erde (ZIPE). Der Kern der Anlage war ein ausrangierter Messturm. Direkt daneben hatte man ein paar Bungalows gebaut, einen Campingwagen hingestellt und einige Bauwagen irgendwie in „Ferienwohnungen” verwandelt. Den systemüblichen Stacheldraht drumherum und fertig.

Blick vom Messturm Richtung Küstenwald. Rechts der Sanitärbungalow. 

Wie in der DDR üblich konnte man über die Arbeitsstelle dann dort streng nach Zuteilung seinen Urlaub verbringen. Wir reisten in der Regel im Mai oder im Oktober nach Rügen: in den Anfangsjahren mit Zug und Fahrrad, später dann mit zwei Erwachsenen und drei Kindern klassisch mit einem Trabant (Stufenheck). Es kursieren über diese Autoreisen diverse Legenden: Demnach lag bspw. ein Kind für die komplette Fahrt auf der Hutablage. Selbst mit dieser Sitzverteilung kann ich mir heute, wenn ich manchmal einen Trabant auf der Straße sehe, beim besten Willen nicht vorstellen, wie wir die doch bestimmt mindestens fünfstündige Fahrt aus Potsdam überlebt haben.

Der Messturm. Direkt hinter dem kleinen Tor begann der Strand. 

Die Ausstattung war “funktional”. Trinkwasser musste vom Zeltplatz in Glowe geholt werden, es gab in den meisten Unterkünften keine Toiletten, nur einen fragwürdigen Sanitärbungalow. An Duschen konnte sich in meiner Familie niemand erinnern. Geheizt wurde mit russischen Ölradiatoren. Gekocht wurde auf Elektro-Kochplatten. (Wobei ich mich nicht an irgendetwas, was wir dort gegessen haben, erinnern kann. Oder wie das mit dem Waschen und Zähneputzen funktionierte. Das ist wahrscheinlich wie in Filmen. Diese banalen Dinge werden ausgelassen, weil sie die Illusion und die schöne Geschichte zerstören würden.)

In den 1980er war Pfeife Rauchen angesagt. Im Hintergrund die “Zeuthener Bungalows” und ein fremder Trabant. Keine Ahnung, warum die Räder des Pappautos noch zusätzlich mit Pappe geschützt waren.

Direkt nebenan stand ein Grenzturm, von dem gelangweilte Bewacher des antifaschistischen Schutzwalls nachts gerne mal mit dem Suchscheinwerfer den Strand ableuchteten und auch sonst wahrscheinlich eher interessiert den FKK-Strand beobachteten. Was willst Du an dieser Stelle auch bewachen? Selbst die Fähre braucht von Sassnitz vier Stunden nach Schweden. Regelmäßig ballerten MiGs im Tiefflug über das Meer und sorgten dafür, dass ich schon in frühester Kindheit echte Überschallknalle hören konnte. Ab und an machte ein Tanker vor der Schaabe gemütlich sich selbst sauber und wir hatten viele kleine Öl-Kügelchen am Strand. Ölpest für Ossis quasi.

In meiner Erinnerung gab es ein Foto, wo auch noch meine Schwester oben auf uns drauf saß. Aber wahrscheinlich ist das reine Illusion. Ich kann mir nicht einmal vorstellen, das Bild mit meinen beiden Kindern nachzustellen. Aber da wir nichts hatten im Osten, waren wir wahrscheinlich totale Fliegengewichte und meine Mama sozialistisch vorbildlich durchtrainiert.

Für uns Kinder, und wahrscheinlich auch für die Erwachsenen, war das aber alles egal. Und das ist keine “Früher/in der DDR war alles besser”-Träumerei. (Ich bin schon ganz froh, dass das heute alles etwas komfortabler ist. Und freue mich auch, wenn es in Ferienwohnungen W-Lan,  Fußbodenheizung und vielleicht eine Sauna gibt.)

Die hinimprovisierten Unterkünfte hatten klangvolle Namen: Kogge, großer Wohnwagen (sehr begehrt, da gab es echte “Schlafzimmer”), Bungalow (es gab nur einen für uns, die anderen hießen “die Zeuthener” und die gehörten zu einem anderen Betrieb), Bastei, Doppelwohnwagen, oberes und unteres Turmzimmer. Und in allen waren wir mal. Auf Nachfrage konnten sich meine Eltern nicht erinnern uns irgendwie großartig beaufsichtigt zu haben. Wir streunten den ganzen Tag durch die Kiefernwälder, sammelten Dinge und bauten daraus andere Dinge, spielten am Strand oder buddelten unter den Wohnwagen und Bungalows. Wahrscheinlich ist der Dreck unter meinen Fingernägeln immer noch zu einem gewissen Prozentsatz Ostseesand von damals.

Doppelwohnwagen, hier machten zwei Familien zeitgleich Urlaub. Im Hintergrund die “Kogge”. Mein Bruder trägt einen Old-School-Alu-Hut, ich einen Anorak, mit dem man heute mit 100% Wahrscheinlichkeit ins Berghain kommen würde. Und wir sehen so aus, als ob wir sehr wichtige Dinge tun.

K1 ist mit knapp 10 ja in der Phase, wo alle Urlaube latent “laaangweilig” sind. Wir haben uns, den Berichten unserer Eltern zufolge, angeblich dort nie gelangweilt. Es waren allerdings auch immer andere Kinder anwesend. Und Sachen wie auf Papas Schoß den einen Kilometer Waldweg selbst Autofahren, ein Fischernetz finden und in einer ebenfalls angeschwemmten blauen Plastetonne per Post nach Hause schicken und es dort als Hängematte zu verwenden, sind selbst aus heutiger Sicht vom Coolnessfaktor relativ weit oben, würde ich sagen.

Plattencovermotiv #1

Damals gab es auch noch für Touristen wie uns am Strand auffindbare Bernsteine, sodass wir sogar freiwillig längere Strandspaziergänge unternahmen, um unsere Schätze in den Streichholzschachteln aufzufüllen. So etwas kompensiert die Abwesenheit jeglicher Unterhaltungselektronik natürlich. (Ausnahme im Mai: die Radioübertragungen der Friedensfahrt, nur echt mit Fanfare. Seitdem bin ich auch Fan von Dschamolidin Abduschaparow. Ja, er hat den DDR-Recken wie Olaf Ludwig den ein oder anderen Sieg geklaut, hatte eine rüpelhafte Fahrweise und war – wie wahrscheinlich alle Radsportler – bis oben zu mit Medikamenten. Aber dieser Name …)

Plattencovermotiv #2

Mit Fahrrädern sind wir bis Kap Arkona gefahren oder haben spukige Ruinen von Herrenhäuser hinter Juliusruh erkundet und in den Maisfeldern gespielt. Ich hatte irgendwann einen mechanischen Kilometerzähler (nicht zu verwechseln mit einem Tachometer, unerreichbar damals) und habe die Wege statistisch erkundet und Kilometer gesammelt. Und manchmal haben wir in der “Ostseeperle” in Glowe Eis gegessen. Die Camper auf dem Zeltplatz haben wir belächelt, wir hatten es schließlich viel besser. Viel gemütlicher, individueller, privater und wilder.

Erstaunlich wie oft auf den wenigen Bildern – Schwarz-Weiß-Filme, selbst entwickelt – Zäune und Stacheldraht zu sehen ist. 

Bis Anfang der 1990er war das unser Abenteuerspielplatz, dann wurde die Welt größer, es gab viel zu entdecken. 1995 oder 1996 war ich noch einmal auf einer Radtour dort. Der Nachwendekater hatte voll zugeschlagen. Die Bauwagen waren teilweise schon weg, der Turm von Vandalismus gezeichnet. Türen hingen in den Angeln, Hakenkreuze waren an die Reste der Bungalows geschmiert. Der Grenzturm war so demoliert, dass wir uns nicht einmal rein trauten. Dabei war es das, was wir die ganze Zeit eigentlich immer wollten, das große Geheimnis lüften, wie die Welt von diesem verbotenen Turm aus eigentlich aussieht, wie das funktioniert mit dem Suchscheinwerfer und dem Alarm. Damals konnte man noch bedenkenlos auf Rügen wild zelten und eigentlich wollte ich genau dort noch einmal übernachten. Wir sind dann aber lieber noch ein paar Kilometer weiter gefahren, weil wir nicht irgendwelchen Dorfnazis bei einem nächtlichem Saufgelage begegnen wollten.

Mittlerweile ist von dem Ferienquartier nichts mehr übrig, die Natur holt sich ihr Land zurück. „So entschwindet die Vergangenheit in der Unschärfe“, sagte mein Papa, als wir in alten Online-Karten oder bei Google-Maps in der Historie nach dem Ort oder den Überresten suchten.

Und selbst das allwissende Internet findet weder zu unserem „Objekt” noch zu dem seltsamen Grenzturm irgendetwas. Aber immer wenn ich über das Kopfsteinpflaster in Sagard Richtung Wittow fahre, kommen die Erinnerungen wieder. Und der Name “Glowe” hat in unserer Familie auch nach den vielen Jahren und dem heutigen, relativ banalen Ostseeort so gar nicht entsprechend, einen sehr abenteuerlichen, vertrauten und fast heimatlichen Klang.

Und meine Abneigung gegen Hotels und Ferienparks ist genauso wie die Vorliebe für Ferienwohnungen und Urlaube möglichst ohne die geringsten Anzeichen von Massentourismus wahrscheinlich genau hier entstanden.

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